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Alchemist & sustainability


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First milestones, should be better Click here for score rapport: 9 out of 34

Sustainability summary

Alchemist has achieved our D-label. Alchemist scores good points for producing 80% of its clothes in Portugal. However, the company should be more clear about the use of environmentally preferred materials. Also, policies to reduce their carbon footprint are not clear.

Brand owner: Alchemist Fashion B.V.
Head office: Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Sector: Casual clothing
Categories : Female
Free Tags: Shirts, Pullover, Dress

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Alchemist sustainability score report

Last edited: 17 April 2019 by Niels
Last reviewed: 17 April 2019 by Niels

Questions about Climate Change/ Carbon Emissions

0 out of 6
1. Has the brand (owner) disclosed the annual absolute climate footprint of its 'own operations', and has it accomplished an overall absolute climate footprint reduction compared to the result of the previous reporting year? Alchemist does not publish the climate footprint of last years. It is therefore not clear if the implemented measures actually helped to reduce the total annual greenhouse gas emissions. Source
2. Is at least 50% of the electricity used by the brand (company) generated from renewable resources, such as wind or solar energy? Alchemist does not communicate its renewable energy policy. Source
3. Is all the electricity used by the brand (company) generated from renewable resources, such as wind or solar energy? See remark for carbon emissions policy question 3. Source
4. Has the brand (owner) disclosed the annual absolute climate footprint of its supply chain that is 'beyond own operations? Alchemist mentions that production locations are now closer to home. But it is not clear how this actually helped reduce the carbon footprint of the supply chain, as there was no footprint calculation published. Source
5. Has the brand (owner) accomplished a reduction of this annual absolute climate footprint 'beyond own operations' compared to the result of the previous reporting year? See remark for carbon emissions policy question 5. Source
6. Has the brand (owner) set a target to make at least its own operations fully climate neutral by 2030, and is the brand on track to achieve this target? Alchemist does not have such a target. Source

Questions about Environmental Policy

3 out of 12
1. Does the brand (company) use environmentally 'preferred' raw materials for more than 5% of its volume? Alchemist refers to annual reports to find the shares of environmentally preferred materials. However, such reports could not be found. The materials page mention the shares neither. Source
2. Does the brand (company) use environmentally 'preferred' raw materials for more than 10% of its volume? See remark for environmental policy question 1. Source
3. Does the brand (company) use environmentally 'preferred' raw materials for more than 25% of its volume? See remark for environmental policy question 1. Source
4. Does the brand (company) use environmentally 'preferred' raw materials for more than 50% of its volume? See remark for environmental policy question 1. Source
5. Does the brand (company) use environmentally 'preferred' raw materials for more than 75% of its volume? See remark for environmental policy question 1. Source
6. Does the brand (company) use environmentally 'preferred' raw materials for more than 90% of its volume? See remark for environmental policy question 1. Source
7. Is there a policy for the brand (company) to eliminate all hazardous chemicals from the whole lifecycle and all production procedures to make the clothes and footwear? Part of the production of Alchemist's clothing is GOTS certified, which means that high standards are maintained for suitable chemical use and water policies during production. However, it is not clear for what part. Source
8. Has the brand (company) eliminated at least one suspect chemical group, such as Phthalates or Per fluorinated chemicals from its entire garment production? Alchemist communicates that e.g. Azo dyes, Phthalates and PFC are not used in the production of all its garments. Source
9. Has the brand (company) eliminated at least three suspect chemical groups, such as Phthalates or Per fluorinated chemicals from its entire garment production? See remark for environmental policy question 8. Source
10. Does the brand (owner) report what percentage of its consumer packaging materials are renewable or made from recycled materials, and does the brand implement best practices or concrete policies which have reduced the environmental impact of their packaging materials? Alchemist mentions that biodegradable packaging and carrier bags are used. However, it is not clear to what part of the total use of packaging materials this relates. Source
11. Does the brand (owner) publish its absolute waste materials footprint and implement concrete policies to minimize waste, by reducing, re-using and recycling, thereby decreasing its waste footprint compared to the previous reporting year? Alchemist does not communicate any concrete information about its waste reduction policies. Source
12. Does the brand (company) encourage the return or re-use of garments? Alchemist actively encourages consumers to recycle clothes, e.g. to give worn clothes to a second hand store or to repair them. Source

Questions about Labour Conditions/ Fair Trade

6 out of 16
1. Does the brand (owner) have a supplier Code of Conduct (CoC) which includes all standards to ensure workers' rights such as no child labour, no bonded labour, a safe workplace and no excessive overwork? And is there at least a progress report once every two years on implementation of this Code of Conduct? Alchemist is no longer a member of the Fair Wear Foundation (FWF). It is not clear what labour standards are currently applicable, especially for the production in Macedonia and India. Alchemist refers to annual audits, but the results are not shared. Source
2. Does the brand (owner) have a policy to make sure there is a proper grievance mechanism in place for factory workers and are at least 25% of workers informed about their rights regarding this mechanism (e.g. through training)? Alchemist does not mention any complaint mechanism. Source
3. Does the brand (owner) have a published list of direct suppliers, that have collectively contributed to more than 90% of the purchase volume? Alchemist mentions the production countries Portugal, Macedonia and India, but not the factory names and places. Source
4. Is this supplier list specific? Are e.g. the addresses of direct suppliers included, and/or are the specific products mentioned per factory? See remark for labor conditions policy question 3. Source
5. Is the list of direct suppliers extended with suppliers further down the supply chain, with a minimum of 40% in number compared to the direct suppliers? See remark for labor conditions policy question 3. Source
6. Is the brand (owner) a member of a collective initiative that aims to improve labor conditions, in which civil society organizations like NGOs and labor unions have a decisive voice, or does the brand purchase at least 50% from certified manufacturers with improved labor conditions? Alchemist is signatory to the Dutch covenant for sustainable textiles, which is eligible to this question. Source
7. Does this initiative require clear minimum performance levels for member brands? The Dutch covenant applies requirements for transparency. For improving labour conditions, the requirements are not clear. Source
8. Is at least 25% of the total production volume at direct suppliers verified under monitoring concerning good labour conditions? Around 80% of the Alchemist production is made in Portugal, which is a low risk country. Source
9. Is at least 50% of the total production volume at direct suppliers verified under monitoring concerning good labour conditions? See remark for labor conditions policy question 8. Source
10. Is at least 75% of the total production volume at direct suppliers verified under monitoring concerning good labour conditions? See remark for labor conditions policy question 8. Source
11. Is at least 95% of the total production volume at direct suppliers verified under monitoring concerning good labour conditions? See remark for labor conditions policy question 8. Source
12. Does the brand (company) annually report on the results of its labor conditions policy for the leather, yarn and fabric production phases, including a reasonable overview of the number and region of workplaces covered by the policy in relation to the total production volume? A part of the Alchemist collection is GOTS certified which includes social standards. However it is not clear what part is certified. Source
13. Does the brand (owner) publicly commit to a living wage benchmark with defined wages per production region or factory? Alchemist mentions that it participated in research to wages in Portugal, but did not share the results. For living wages in the other production countries, Alchemist did not give any information. Source
14. Does the brand (owner) set a target to establish the payment of living wages at its apparel manufacturers, and is the brand on track to achieve this target? See remark for labor conditions policy question 13. Source
15. Has the brand (owner) realised payment of living wages for at least 10% of its production volume? For the 80% production in Portugal, we can assume that living wages are provided for by law. Source
16. Does the brand (owner) adhere to buying practices that enable living wages and good labour conditions, such as long-term relations with factories, and concentrating production at limited number of factories? Alchemist has reduced its supplier base and has 80% of its production in Portugal. Source