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How sustainable is H&M ?

H&M & sustainability


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13 out of 20

Sustainability summary

H&M has received our B-label for sustainability and is a 'good choice' compared to the other clothing retailers. H&M is the only retailer that has published its list of suppliers. H&M annually reports about the improvements and problems regarding the labour conditions of the tailors in low wage countries. Last year, H&M has improved its climate and environmental policies. When shopping at H&M look out for the clothing of organic cotton!

Brand owner: H & M Hennes & Mauritz AB
Head office: Stockholm, Sweden
Sector: Retailers
Categories : Male, Female, Kids, Baby
Free Tags: H&M, Bags, Caps, Pullover, Shirts, Suits, Jackets, Jeans, Dress, Shoes, Boots

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H&M sustainability score report

Last edited: 8 May 2013 by Niels
Last reviewed: 4 April 2013 by Mario

Questions about Climate Change/ Carbon Emissions

2 out of 5
1. Is there a policy for the brand to minimize, reduce or compensate carbon emissions? H & M Group attempts to reduce its carbon emissions by sourcing energy from renewable sources, increasing energy efficiency in stores, and is also trying to raise awareness for climate change beyond its own operations (see page 57-64 of its 2012 CSR Report for details regarding different activities). Source
2. Has the brand (company) disclosed the annual absolute carbon footprint of its 'own operations' (Scope 1 & 2) and has the brand already reduced or compensated 10% of these emissions in the last 5 years? H & M Group publishes its carbon footprint. However, the 2012 footprint of own operations (344,912 tons COeq) represents an increase of around 38% compared to 2009 (250,152 tons COeq) see link, page 60). Source
3. Is the efficiency of greenhouse gas emissions below 200 kg CO2-eq per square meter shopping floor per year, or does the brand use at least 25% green electricity for the shops? H & M Group reports a target of reducing energy use in its stores by 20% by 2020 per square metre, compared to 2007. In 2012 a reduction of 15% was achieved (see link, page 61). However, it is unclear if this is below 400 kg CO-eq per square meter shopping floor. Source
4. Has the brand (company) set a target to reduce its absolute ‘own operations’ carbon emissions by at least 20% within the next 5 years? H & M Group has set the target to reduce carbon emissions of total operations by 2015. However, no concrete target values are reported (see link, pages 58 -60). Source
5. Does the brand (company) also have a policy to reduce/compensate carbon emissions generated from the product supply chain that is beyond own operations (Scope 3)? Since 2010 H & M Group has started a supplier Energy Efficiency Programme. In 2012 154 factories engaged in this programme (see link, page 64). Source

Questions about Environmental Policy

3 out of 6
1. Does the brand (company) use environmentally 'preferred' raw materials for more than 5% of its volume? In 2012 H & M Group increased, as an example, its use of sustainable cotton up to 11.4%. At that organic cotton represents 7.8% of its entire cotton use (see link, page 19). However, H & M does not provide percentages of the total use of environmentally friendly materials related to all raw materials. Source
2. Does the brand (company) use environmentally 'preferred' raw materials for more than 10% of its volume? See remark for environmental policy question 1. Source
3. Does the brand (company) use environmentally 'preferred' raw materials for more than 25% of its volume? See remark for environmental policy question 1. Source
4. Is there a policy for the brand (company) to eliminate all hazardous chemicals from the whole lifecycle and all production procedures to make the clothes and footwear? In 2011 H & M Group commited to Greenpeace to the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals and makes sure that these restrictions are understood and applied in its supply chain (see link, page 78). Source
5. Does the brand (company) have a clear and effective policy to minimize environmental pollution of chromium and other harmful substances from leather tanning processes, e.g. by waste water treatment or by vegetable tanning? H & M Group reports that according to its List of Restricted Chemicals, chromium is restricted in the company's products (see link of next question, page 1). Furthermore, in 2012 27% of H & M Group' leather shoes were made with leather from Leather Working Group (LWG) certified tanneries (see link, page 21). Source
6. Does the brand (company) have a clear target to phase out PVC in their products, and has the brand already achieved a PVC phase out level of more than 90%? H & M Group reports that according to its List of Restricted Chemicals, PVC is restricted in the company's products (see link, page 1). Source

Questions about Labour Conditions/ Fair Trade

8 out of 9
1. Does the brand (company) have a supplier Code of Conduct (CoC) which includes the following standards: No forced or slave labor, no child labor, no discrimination of any kind and a safe and hygienic workplace? H&M is a member of the Fair Labor Organisation (FLA), but has its own Code of Conduct, in which all of these standards are mentioned. Source
2. Does this CoC include at least two of the following workers rights: 1. to have a formally registered employment relationship 2. to have a maximum working week of 48 hours with voluntary and paid overtime of 12 hours maximum 3. to have a sufficient living wage? 1.Yes, formally registered employment relationship; 2.Maximum working week of 48 hours, voluntary paid overtime of 12 hours maximum; 3. "Living wage" is not mentioned(see link, pages 3-4). However, in 2011 H&M joined the Fair Wage Network, which will independently assess wage structures of around 200 H&M factories(see p. 15 of the sustainability report 2011). Source
3. Does this Code of Conduct include the right for workers to form and join trade unions and bargain collectively; and in those situations where these rights are restricted under law, the right to facilitate parallel means of independent and free association and bargaining? Freedom of association is mentioned, but nothing found about situations in which this right is restricted by law (see link, page 3). Source
4. Does the brand (company) have a clear and effective health and safety policy for the workers in the finishing process of jeans, at least covering the ban on sandblasting? H&M claims that since 2010, the company introduced a ban on the use of sandblasting in its supply chain (see link, page 42). Source
5. Does the brand (company) have a published list of direct suppliers, that have collectively contributed to more than 90% of the purchase volume? H & M Group has published a "Global SupplierList". This list covers around 95% of H & M Group´s supplier as at 01.02.2013. Source
6. Is the brand (company) a member of a collective initiative that aims to improve labor conditions, or does the brand (company) purchase its supplies from accredited factories with improved labor conditions? H & M Group is a member of the Fair Labour Association (FLA), Sustainable Apperal Coalition, the Better Cotton Initiative, and other local or regional sustainability initiatives (see link, page 14). Source
7. Do independent civil society organizations like NGO's and labor unions have a decisive voice in this collective initiative or in these certification schemes? FLA is acknowledged as a Multi-Stakeholder Initiative. Source
8. Does the brand (company) annually report on the results of its labor conditions policy? H & M Group conducted 2,646 audits of active factories in 2012. The results are published (see link, pages 32-46). Source
9. Has the brand’s labor conditions policy resulted in a ‘compliance level’ of at least 30% of the purchase volume, or a ‘monitored level' of at least 80%? In 2012 H & M Group conducted 2,646 audits which means that on average every factory was audited 1,2 times (see link, pages 32-33). Source